RV Tour Leg 26 - Zion National Park

Zion National Park: Eight Days of Adventure and Awe

After a quick stop in Page, AZ, we made our way to Zion National Park—our home for the next eight nights. (We actually passed through Page again on the way out, but I’ll save that for my next post!)

One of the smartest moves by the busier national parks is closing main roads to private vehicles and replacing them with shuttle buses. This not only reduces traffic and parking headaches but, for us, it makes the park roads a dream for biking. We took full advantage, pedaling from our campground at the canyon base all the way to its stunning end, soaking in jaw-dropping views the entire way.

Our bike ride (sans cars) up Zion Canyon

At the farthest point in the canyon, we hiked the scenic River Walk, a tranquil path along the Virgin River—the very river that carved Zion’s dramatic cliffs. Adventurous hikers can wade straight into The Narrows, a famous slot canyon hike that requires walking in the river itself. We watched soaked hikers emerge, shivering and looking a little worse for wear. With fast-flowing, chest-deep water and a riverbed of slippery boulders, it didn’t look like much fun. Renting special gear (waterproof boots, poles, and overalls) would have set us back $110, but we decided to pass—there are plenty of dry, stunning canyons ahead on our journey!

On the River Walk - people starting their hike into the Narrows behind us.

Scoring a Coveted Campsite

Booking a campsite at Zion is an Olympic sport. Reservations open exactly six months in advance at 10 AM Eastern, and by 10:00:01, they’re gone. Some parks were impossible to book even when I tried multiple days in a row, but by some miracle, I secured a spot at Zion—right next to the visitor center! This proved to be a game-changer. We were there during spring break, and each morning, we watched lines of cars stretching a half-mile long to enter the park. Meanwhile, we just hopped on our bikes or jumped on a shuttle—effortless.

Our campsite at Zion - not only convenient, it was gorgeous.

Catching Up with Friends

A special highlight of our Zion stay was reconnecting with our friends Karl and Lisa, who live in Hurricane, Utah, about 50 minutes away. They made the drive to meet us for dinner in Springdale, the charming gateway town just outside the park. With its ski-town vibe, cozy restaurants, and local brews, our meal felt like a classic après-ski gathering. Afterward, we capped off the evening with a campfire back at our site—a perfect way to end the day.

Campfire with Karl and Lisa and the full moon.

Conquering Zion’s Iconic Hikes

Zion is a hiker’s paradise, and we covered some serious ground.

David braved Angels Landing, one of the most famous (and terrifying) hikes in the country. It requires a special permit, won via lottery, and involves clinging to chains with sheer drop-offs of hundreds of feet. When he won the permit, I was both happy and mildly horrified. To reach the base of Angels Landing, all hikers must first climb to Scout Lookout, a steep but stunning 2-mile ascent—that part, I was happy to do. I left an hour after David, spotted a mountain goat on the way up and just as I arrived at the lookout, he was coming off Angels Landing, exhilarated but in one piece.

Desert Mountain Goat on the way to Scout Lookout

A view of Walter's Wiggles, the hike up to Scout Look out, Angels Landing is beyond.

The dad sandwich going up Angels Landing - I'm glad I'm not married to him, yikes!

David's fellow travelers at Angels Landing

We’d met a dedicated birder earlier in the trip who had spent years searching for a condor. Somehow, we got lucky—first spotting one at the Grand Canyon and now seeing two more in Zion at Scout Lookout.

2 Condors at Scout Lookout - later they flew away and we were able to see them soar!

Other highlights included Emerald Pools, which was made even more magical by a fresh snowfall the night before. The trees glistened under a blanket of white, and the waterfalls were in full force, making for a breathtaking scene. We also hiked The Watchman, a fantastic trail right from the campground, and explored Kolob Canyon, a lesser-known but equally spectacular part of the park with incredible views and a (very muddy) trail.

The falls into the Emerald Pools on a snowy morning.

On day we drove the famous Mt. Carmel Highway, a winding route with jaw-dropping scenery, switchbacks, and a mile-long tunnel. We stopped for a short but stunning hike at Cascade Falls, where delicate waterfalls trickled over vibrant rock formations and into serene pools.

On our final day, we met up with Lisa again for a hike at Snow Canyon State Park, a hidden gem just outside St. George. Lisa is a trail steward there and knew all the best routes. Karl, who also volunteers at the park, tagged along but opted out of hiking—he recently fell off a ladder (ouch), so he played it safe. After the hike, we enjoyed dinner at their community’s clubhouse, where we dined outdoors in mid-March, surrounded by gorgeous scenery and a bold little roadrunner (who, thankfully, wasn’t carrying any Acme dynamite).

Wrapping Up Our Zion Adventure

Spending over a week in Zion was a gift. We hiked, biked, and explored at a pace that let us truly absorb the park’s beauty. There’s something special about lingering in a place long enough to feel like you know it.

Next stop: Page, AZ. Stay tuned!